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(N0 Model.) M. H. RYDER.

WIRING BRIMS 0F HATS AND BONNBTS. No. 288,596. Patented Nov. 13, 1883.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MARTIN H. RYDER, OF STAMFORD, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE WILL- .COX &GIBBS SEWING MACHINE COMPANY OF NEW YORK.

WIRING BRIMS OF HATS AND BONNETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 288,596, dated November13, 1883,

Application filed July 31, 1883. No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, MARTIN H. RYDER, ofStamform in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, haveinvented a new and useful Improvement in Wiring Brims of Hats andBonnets, which improvement is fully set.

forth in the following specification.

This invention has reference to the wiring of brims of hats andbonnets-as, for example,

womens felt hats or bonnets-by attaching at or near the edge of the brima covered wire or its-equivalent by means of a sewing-machine ofordinary or suitable construction, making a straight-ahead seam. Thestitches I 5 pass through the covering, which is usually a seamlessbraided or woven tube inclosing the wire, and through the brim.

Heretofore in attaching the wire the seam has been run on the outside ofthe wire, or on the same side as the edge of the brim.

The present invention consists in running the seam on the inside or sideopposite from the edge of the brim. By this improvement the wire may beattached nearer 2 5 than heretofore to the edge, and may, in fact, whenironed down, project over or lie on the edge, while at the same time thestitches have a good hold upon the material composing the brim, and,moreover, the seam is concealed be- 0 hind the wire. A hat or bonnethaving the seam wired in this way constitutes a new article ofmanufacture, and is specially claimed.

To carry the invention into effect,the grooved guide for the coveredwire and the edge-guide g, 5 for the hat-brim are placed on the sameside of the needle, instead of on opposite sides, as heretofore. Such anarrangement is shown in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings, Fig. 2illustrating a portion of a hat or bonnet brim 4o wired in accordancewith the invention.

A is the work-plate of the machine; B, the needle; C, a grooved wireguide placed with its axis on the goose-neck or right-hand side of theneedle; D, an adjustable edge-guide on 5 the same side of the needle; E,the presserfoot; F, the brim of the hat or bonnet; G, the covered wire,and H the seam.

The machine shown is of the Willcox & Gibbs chain-stitch type, andembodies improvements described in Letters Patent No. 230,212, grantedJuly 20. 1880, to Chas. H. Willcox. The only novelty is in theconstruction of the needle, so that the point is in line with that sideof the needle which is adjacent to the goose-neck, and which in theWillcox & Gibbs machine is provided with the short groove instead ofbeing in line with the opposite side, which is provided with the longgroove, and that the grooved wire guide 0 is on the same side of theneedle. The covered wire is placed in the grooved guide, the brim of thehat or bonnet placed over it, with its edge in contact with the guide D,which is set or adjusted to leave the desired margin outside the seam.The machine being operated in the usual way, a seam of straightaheadsewing-machine stitches is run parallel with and close alongside thewire, through the covering thereof and the material composing the brim.The hat or bonnet is afterward fin- 7O ished in any ordinary or suitableway.

It is preferred to use a machine embodying the patented improvementsreferred to; but it is evident that other systems of guides arranged inthe manner indicated could be used with or without a needle having itspoint in line with one of its sides.

The improved mode of wiring brims, herein described, differs essentiallyfrom the attachment of a cord thereto by means of a braid or tape foldedlongitudinally around the cord, with its edges laid on opposite sides ofthe brim and stitched thereto, since no attaching braid or tape is used,the stitches passing through the covering, which closely and uniformlysurrounds the wire.

I claim- 1. The improvement in wiring the brims of hats and bonnets byattaching covered wire to the brim, with a seam of straight-aheadsewing-machine stitches on the inside of the wire, through the brim andthe covering of said wire, substantially in the manner and by theVVitnesses:

E. V. BIKER, CHAS. H. WILLCOX.

